《奢侈品品牌管理-方法与实践》书评

中国本土奢侈品品牌建立

还不错的奢侈品介绍，数据详尽，案例丰富。就是因为是本大部头，显然有些啰嗦。重复稍多，提炼不够。对某些方面感兴趣，可以分章节阅读。而且数据较新。【奢侈品定义】从以下的奢侈品定义里，可以分别展开不同的营销策略：经济学家的定义：“奢侈品”是价值与品质最高的产品，是无形价值与有形价值比值最高的产品。商品学家的定义：价格高并不意味着就是“奢侈品”。“奢侈品”的高价性也绝非是生产与使用过高过多的物质成本的积累与堆砌，而是在其背后有一个完美体系支撑和百年文化传承。美学家的定义：“奢侈品”是一种生活被艺术化的符号，是一种把生活追求变为美学的外在标志，是一种艺术美学的直接代表，它被赋予了更多的文化、历史、艺术和哲学的含义。社会学家的定义：“奢侈品”早已超越了“腐败、浪费、颓废、不公平”的意味，而是以非同寻常的物质符号来塑造自我主张的个性风格，奢侈品及其消费已经成为社会进步和经济发展的推动力。【四个标准】2005年9月，世界品牌实验室（World Brand Lab）发布了2005年（首届）世界顶级奢侈品100品牌排行榜，基于以下四个标准：1、 价值品质2、 文化历史3、 高端人气4、 购买欲求【三十年河东、三十年河西】2005-2007三年奢侈品前100名排名变迁中有一个有趣的现象：Top20的品牌往往呈现“三十年河东，三十年河西”的局面，而其后的排位几乎没有易主。【欧洲奢侈品品牌】文艺复兴导致的文化冲击深深烙印在欧洲的历史长河中，许许多多历史长达数百年的奢侈品品牌就是在这样的温床中的一恽毓德，而欧洲的复古风格也是非这样的文化底蕴不可的。在世界品牌实验室2008年甄选的100个奢侈品品牌中，有71个来源于欧洲，它们都具有50年以上的历史，其中还有23个超过150年风霜洗礼。——悠久的历史和文化背景可以孕育出强大的奢侈品品牌和奢侈品市场。【“魔法”和“逻辑”】“蔻驰（COACH）能够很好地将逻辑和魔法融为一体，”蔻驰公司全球主席兼行政总裁弗兰克福（Lew Frankfort）说，“魔法代表的是对时尚的把握和对产品的创新能力，逻辑是你能理解你的客户需求，并且知道他们今天在哪里，明天会到哪里。”【奢侈品品牌的特征——6高1长】奢侈品品牌具有“6高1长”的特性，即高知名度、高美誉度、高顾客忠诚度、高经济效益、高无形资产价值、高社会效应、较长的市场生命周期。【奢侈品品牌成功模式】1、 制造稀缺型：BURJ AL-ARAB、Patek Philippe、BENTLEY、Rolls-Royce、TIFFANY、Ferrari2、 强调品味型CHIVAS、Cohiba、Armani、zippo3、 提倡个性型CHANEL No.5、HARLEY、BMW、LV、HUMMER、VERSACE4、 描绘梦想型Dior、Shiseido、LANCOME5、 创造尊崇型MONT BLANC、Louis XVI Wine、Cadillac、HENNESY最后说一下我比较感兴趣的中国二三线城市的奢侈品市场发展，之前写过一份相关的奢侈品品牌建立的报告，也有所涉及这个部分。当时的报告里，对于二三线城市的讨论不是很充分。【二、三线城市的奢侈品市场】根据贝恩（Bain）公司2009年研究报告表明，目前中国部分二、三线城市的奢侈品市场消费能力已经和一线城市接近，二、三线城市（比如温州、深圳等）消费者的购买力和对奢侈品的态度也与北京、上海等城市接近。之所以目前在中国的二、三线城市的奢侈品市场没有上海等地如此繁荣，主要有以下原因：1、二、三线城市优质零售空间稀缺且难获得。2、招聘和挽留符合要求的门店员工在二、三线城市困难重重。3、二、三线城市本地购物卖场缺乏与奢侈品品牌合作的经验。综上，如果想建立一个中国本土奢侈品品牌，避开现在已有的国际化大品牌，就只好去还没有被侵占的二、三线城市奢侈品市场发展，这也就要求从最初的培训等等，大量投入。【附：奢侈品品牌建立报告（英文，图表未显示）】High-grade Watch:Brand-building and Brand-marketing in Chinese Luxury MarketChapter1: Introduction and ObjectivesIn recent years, China has been the center of focus for much business from around the world. Because of its rapid economic growth and increasingly favorable policies, businesses find it to be a very lucrative market. One particular segment that has received special focus is the luxury segment, because of consumers’ ability and propensity to spend and a desire to exhibit and enjoy their new wealth.According to The World Luxury Association’s Official 2009-2010 Global Annual Report, luxury consumption in China has added up to 9.4 billion dollars, taken up the 27.5 percent of the global share. However, it is foreign luxury brands that have established sizable market share and brand recognition within the China luxury segment. Under such circumstance, how to build and manage a Chinese luxury brand is a meaningful topic.The study, based on the model of high-grade watch, analyzes the motivations behind the purchase of luxury, especially in the context of China, and assesses some marketing strategies in such Chinese luxury brands, including e-commerce.Chapter2: Conception of Branding and An Analysis of the Luxury Market in ChinaPart1: Conception of Branding1-1 Brand ConceptsWhat is a brand?What are differences between a brand and a product?What should brand brings for a company?And then, think of, “how”?Brand has a series of sense, including nature, benefit, value, culture, character and user. And brand image consists of company’s image, users’ image and service’s image. 1-2 Why branding in China? Someone has put up a concept that a brand should reflect some kind of lifestyle. Lifestyle is decided by model of production. China now has a high degree of division and commoditized model of production, which leads to commoditized commodities and arouses customers’ rationality in comparing products with little difference. Meanwhile, lifestyle can divide people into different social status. Combining these two parts, brand can be the vital context in the contemporary customer behavior. Brand recognition and preference are now powerful phenomenon in China and greatly influence how consumers evaluate products and indicate preferences. According to research conducted by Accenture on the Chinese consumers in late 2006, the key determining attributes for differentiating a brand are its reputation and alignment with the consumers’ personal values. As to Andrew Meaden, CEO of media investment management company Mindshare China, brand power is very high in China as compared to other developed markets in the world. “The Chinese market is still not saturated, and brand is seen as a much clearer guide to personal status and prestige in China than in other countries.Part2: An Analysis of the Luxury Market in China2-1 Luxury Market in ChinaIn the book Luxury Brand Management, the author, Michel Chevalier, also a consultant and former company executive, points that with the high rising pace, the scale of Chinese luxury market, taking up 5% of total value of global luxury market, is still small and has a huge space to grow. Chinese luxury market is a green market.Compared with the increasing Chinese market, other mature markets such as American and European, on the contrary, continue to soften. It is the point of time.However, when a Chinese company establishes a strategy of brand building and management, one thing should not be ignored, that is, the top 5 brands shares half of every category of luxury goods, includes high-end watches. 2-2 Luxury Concept in ChinaThe luxury brands’ consumption model consists of four stages in terms of development in consumer behavior for buying luxury brands. In the first “conquer” stage, people begin to show interest in luxury brands. In the second “economic growth” stage, many of new rising middle class start to afford higher priced items such as electronic goods and some of elite class start to consume luxury brands. In the third “showing off” stage, people buy symbolic items to show off their wealth and economic status. Luxury consumers search for meaning and emotional fulfillment in general. In the agreement stage, people become very familiar with luxury brands and luxury consumptions spread just like viruses do. People regularly consume luxury brands and have higher taste to differentiate from others.From a survey on a research of popularization on luxury goods, we can draw a conclusion as the figure below. As is shown on the figure, valuableness ranks the first (13.86%). It leads that the high-price is the symbolic definition of luxury goods. But it doesn’t equal to “luxury”. After “valuableness”, there are grade (12.28%), delica (10.63%), and classic (10.41%), quality (9.77%). Then comes “luxury” (9.56%), ranked in the sixth. Therefore, luxury goods have been aesthetic objectives, while its high prices are used to pay for such products, a kind of combination of aesthetic value and functional practice. Also, we can see that negative definitions such as “superficiality”(2.52%) and “waste”(5.07%) rank last. To sum up, from the perspective of Chinese consumers, “luxury goods” now has been a neutral word.From the tradition of China, Chinese speak highly of diligence and thrift. In spite of the result above, we can infer that there are a certain group of elder people who still equal “luxury goods” with “luxury”, “expensive” and “a waste of money”. Thus, when their children consumes on luxury goods, they will put pressure on them and the contradiction breaks out.According to the analysis of luxury concept in China, we can deduce the main target consumer group should be the young age, and we should emphasize the optimistic concept of “luxury goods” instead of “showing off” stage in marketing.Chaper3: Analysis-Consumer Behaviour in ChinaIn China, domestic companies attention for comprehensive cross subject is far from enough. In fact, not only customer psychology should be applied to brand management.Part 1: Make sure the Nature of BrandDoes it represent royalty, or respect? Grace or good quality? As is mentioned above, if a brand devotes to reflecting a kind of lifestyle, it means that its business model should be closely tied to the lifestyle behind the brand. Once a company set a brand for its commodities, it made a promise to its customers. Brand, indeed, is customers’ worship and pursuit for their self-fulfillment. When deciding what nature of luxury goods brand should be, the market and social value must be taken into serious consideration. Elder Chinese people think highly of thrift, and young people need acceptance from others and courage for themselves. Then, comes to the next part, and the answer will appear clearer.Part2: Defining the marketNo matter how advertisements and slogans explain “luxury” as high quality, social status, respect from others or love for women, the consumption of Chinese elder people is inflexible. And also, in a long term, the future market is for young persons. “He who owns the next generation of customer groups, owns the future market.”But, just targeting at young people is not an enough solid base for brand building. Segment the young market, design different series products under the whole brand.Just for example. Some white-collar persons, they have good education background, they consider their own value and their own development. It is not for a detailed goal, but just self: Self-esteem, self-fulfillment. Maybe we can find another more precise word to describe this series: ego.And also, some persons are so-called successful young entrepreneurs. They, with superior courage and insight, also good fortune, devoted themselves in a brand new innovation and established their own business. For such persons, the nature of the brand may be interpreted as something different from white-collar’s.Besides, there are a group of common people, they may be crowded in the subway in rush hours. They are called “office worker”. They work hard every day although they don’t have some great dreams. But, every step up can make their broad smiles. For these people, some survey have suggested that they may buy luxury goods as rewards for their promotion.Summing up the Part1 and Part2, as for brand building, 3 things should keep in mind. Firstly, give “luxury” a totally new definition, especially for elder market. Secondly, lock on young people. Lastly, segment young people’s market in order to meet different needs.Part3: How to marketing3-1 Traditional methodsBecause of the target on the young market, the sales approach should be connected with young elements. Make a general survey of successful marketing cases, cooperating with music and sports is a preference. These two part can also be thought of in the traditional sales approaches.3-2 E-commerceThen, consider if there is any unique manner. E-commerce is one of the answers. Convenience is a major factor for online factor for online shoppers. Purchasing items online saves time because consumers do not have to go to the boutiques. E-commerce provides luxury brands with the opportunity to attract more consumers who might not be able to travel to boutique locations. On the same time, companies can gain insight into customer buying patterns by analyzing Web traffic; the items that are most often enter into the site’s search engine; and the most popular items on the site. Web site records and transactions can help a company develop an offline marketing strategy that is aligned with its online consumers’ preferences.However, someone may label e-commerce with group purchase for bargains, it is contradicted with the rarity of luxury goods. Below comes a linkage between motives for purchasing luxury brands and consumer behaviors in order to test whether e-commerce dilutes the exclusivity of luxury brands.In short, there are extrinsic factors that affect consumers’ decisions and have to do with the emotional and social value of the purchase. Luxury brands are used for social status rather than for practical functions related to the actual worth of the item. More importantly, the process of buying luxury brands is a high involvement activity for most consumers, from pre-purchase to after-purchase. In order to meet consumers’ expectations of an exclusive experience, luxury brand marketers must understand that the physical shopping experience and the exclusivity of brand image are very important considerations for luxury consumers. Hence, one of the most important things that luxury brands must do for their online customers is to make them feel that they are buying from the same store they have walked through offline. How do luxury brands make consumers feel the same personal service through a Web site as they have in a store? To do this right, first, the images, colors, and text need to flow seamlessly between stores, catalogs, and Web site. It is also essential to develop a consumer-oriented Web site that provides live shopping advice, shares shopping experiences in a consumer community, and builds a relationship with consumers through a membership loyalty program. In addition to a consumer-oriented Web site, luxury brand marketers should develop e-commerce strategies that cater to their consumers’ expectations of not losing the exclusivity and rarity of luxury brands.According to the analysis above, the results indicate that consumers expect an exclusive experience when shopping for luxury brands. Luxury brand marketers must keep in mind that the physical shopping experience and an exclusive brand image are critical considerations for luxury consumers. Thus, companies must make online customers feel as though they are buying from the same store as the one they have walked through offline. Understanding consumer attitudes toward e-commerce and toward purchasing luxury brands, luxury brand marketers must find an effective way to create and implement e-commerce Web sites, which will bring more value to customers and to luxury brands.3-3 The Experience EconomyWith luxury brands marketing, there can’t be without exhibitions and other activities. They provide an opportunity to let the common people come into contact with luxury goods and also help to raise the reputation of luxury brands in some public benefit activities.To let customers experience their products even their business sense before buying, is a great attempt that has been examined profitable. It even creates a new model of economy, that is, the experience economy.Brand means to provide and improve the feeling of experience for their consumers. To remember this point, combined with e-commerce, brand marketers can create some new approaches to manage their brands, to solidify their position among other similar luxury brands in consumers’ heart and help consumer to choose their brand without hesitation.Chapter4: A New brand of High-grade watchesTo carry out the theory above, take brand-building and marketing of high-end watches for example.As shown in relevant survey, survey on MSN Chinese white-collar purchase for luxury goods, launched by iRsearch Consulting Group:1. With increasing age, MSN white-collar netizens pay much more for high-end watches.2. White-collar netizens purchase amount for high-grade watches is proportional to their income.3. Netizens who have master degree prefer to pay 100 thousands for high-grade watches than others.4. With increasing age, netizens’ preferences for high-grade watches increase also.Taking these 4 graphs into consideration and analyzing, we can deduce that at the low ebb of high-grade watches consumerism, to build a new luxury watch brand may have lower barrier against other big brands in this industry. The nature of this brand can be as precise as management layer like, provided that it is not far from the conception what Chinese people defines luxury goods.Then come the products. As is mentioned before, a company can firstly design different series of products and they are distinguished by different value or symbol. As for e-commerce, coordinated with different series, web site can offer a function of self-career plan; it can be personalized by customers themselves and can be even detailed into every day work diary. And then, customer can record each step or level they get forward, to commemorate their improvement and self-achievement. Through this progress, web site users can be potential consumers and must gradually produce affection on the brand. Then the company launches some professional analysis based on the users’ personal character reflected by their individual plan. Through the result of analysis, the company can recommend different series of products according to the users’ taste. The company can also put up with some marketing ideas to let potential consumers experience their products, to understand more their business value.To start with the brand, as for the “second and third line city market”, we can choose such cities to begin the shop store. Consumers in these cities have similar degree of desire for luxury goods but foreign great brands, on the contrary, sometimes haven’t entered these markets. With the experience strategy and brand new products, to break through psychological barrier of the consumers in these cities, ease their uncertainty in choice of similar, inexperienced luxury goods. Chapter5: ConclusionBrand-building and management is a topic based on consumers’ psychology and of course enterprise management and so on. A brand value reveals the company’s culture and business sense. The value of a prestigious brand must cater to the social and target customers’ value. After brand building, every aspect in the later management should match to the value, or to say, the nature of the brand, including service, products design style, stores’ decoration, advertisement message…For luxury markets, especially for Chinese luxury market, to target on the young consumer group may be the better choice. Therefore, the marketing approach should embody the young groups’ value and definition of luxury goods. To cooperate with music, sports-related brands is a method, successfully accepted by the young persons. At this status quo, e-commerce will take a more and more part in marketing. Luxury goods does not totally unfit for e-commerce, but marketers should pay attention to physical shopping experience and an exclusive brand image.At last, brand management is absolutely not a short-term task. It takes unceasing adjust to apply to fast-changing market, not only for luxury, but also for other categories.